The first Royal Oak to feature a perpetual calendar complication was released in 1983, as the reference 5554 (later designated the ref. 25554). Following this, the ref. 25654 was introduced (seen in this example), featuring the same refined aesthetic. As a result of the watch’s new-fashioned approach, only 800 examples of the ref. 25654 were produced (between 1983-98) - limited to just 272, in steel. In recent years, the Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel has since been the canvas on which Audemars Piguet have experimented and redefined its perpetual calendars, introducing various unique interpretations.
This rare, steel, ref. 25654ST example features a lightly-textured, silver dial with black indicators and blued subsidiary hands. The layout of the dial includes all the traditional indications of a perpetual calendar: day, date, astronomical moon (with graduation for moon age) and month.
The steel case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges - striking the perfect balance between utilitarian function and elegant design. The polished screws, bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. At 39mm in diameter, and only 9.3mm thick, this Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. On the reverse, the outer-case back correctly displays the unique serial number (C-28XXX), along with its sequential case number (2XX). The Ref. 25654ST is housed in a 39mm case (like the 5402 'Jumbo’) - succeeded in 2015 by the latest generation of 41mm perpetual calendars.
This Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel is powered by the AP caliber 2120/2800, derived from ’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2120 was an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, and .
The ultra-thin automatic 2120/2800 calibre features 38 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The AP calibre 2120 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most technically refined wrist-watch movements ever made.
The watch comes with an Extract from the Archives (dated April 1988).
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
Closer look
| Brand: | Audemars Piguet |
| Model: | Royal Oak Ref. 25654ST Quantième Perpétuel |
| Movement: | mechanical automatic AP Calibre 2120/2800 |
| Functions: | perpetual calendar: month, date, day, moon-phase; hours, minutes |
| Features: | unrestored, lightly-textured silver dial, blue hands |
| Case: | 39mm stainless steel |
| Crystal: | sapphire |
| Bracelet: | stainless steel |
| Year: | 1988 |
| Box & papers: | Extract from the Archives |
This Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel 25654ST comes with an Extract from the Archives. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled, polished and granular surfaces. Both the case and bracelet are original to the watch, as detailed in the Extract. The bracelet has virtually no stretch and has 18 links, including 2 removable ones. The 2120/2802 calibre movement of this 25829PT comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.
